Kang Guru - 7,010m

The 8000-meter Preparation Mountaineering Expedition to Kang Guru is designed for those climbers who wish to climb an 8000-meter peak such as Cho Oyu, Everest, Gasherbrum or Shishapangma. It offers training and discussions regarding to the techniques required to maximize your chances of success on the big ones and brush up on any mountaineering weaknesses you have. By the end of the expedition you will be a knowledgeable and competent expedition climber and should feel better prepared the for bigger mountains. As a bonus you get to meet your potential guide and some of the Sherpas for Everest and other 8,000-meter mountains.

We attempt Kang Guru at 7,010 meters, which appropriately translated means "Teaching Mountain". The conditions we encounter in mid November will simulate an 8,000-meter peak such as Cho Oyu or Shishapangma.

This course is for the intermediate climber wishing to develop the skills required for 8000-meter peaks. Basic mountaineering experience with the use of ice axe and crampons, and altitude experience of up to 4,270 meters (14,000ft) is recommended.

Course Objectives
· Oxygen use and management
· Portable Altitude Chamber
· First aid kit contents and use
· Snow and ice crampon and climbing techniques
· Using fixed ropes and rappelling
· Acclimatization process
· Nepal-Tibet health
· Camp management and cold weather survival skills
· Group and personal climbing gear

Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu. From Kathmandu we drive to the gateway of the Annapurna trekking circuit, Bhulebhule, to start our four-day trek to the village of Meta and our Base Camp. After arriving in Bhulebhule with our porters that we have brought from Kathmandu with us, we organize the loads for the following days trek to Jagat. Our trek will continue each day as we do not need to stop extra nights for acclimatization until base camp as the elevation gain is low. We spend nights in the villages of Dharapani and Koto Qupar respectively before arriving at Meta Village - Kang Guru Base Camp.

Kang Guru is a semi-technical 7000-meter peak located in the Manang area of Nepal, which allows for fantastic views of the Annapurna Himal. The expedition has a very low base camp at an elevation of 3,600 meters which is located at the edge of Meta Village. Having such a low base camp allows our bodies to recover quicker after carrying loads higher on the mountain and the average temperatures in October and November are much more pleasant at this lower camp.

The climbing begins with a trek and scramble up the Southwest Face. The trail out of base camp is easily identifiable, but higher up we have to navigate the lower face with the aid of bamboo marker wands and cairns. From the end of the trail until the old traditional base camp located at 4,200 meters the route is on scree and grass which can make for a slippery ascent. The old base camp is notorious for a 2005 avalanche so we avoid using this camp and continue climbing on scree for another 300 meters until reaching our camp one which sits in a sheltered safe location. Just before camp one we have a 20 meter rock section to navigate, easy enough but makes for and interesting climb. The climb from base camp to camp one takes between 1.5 to 4 hours.

Continuing from camp one the route has another more challenging rock section, then takes the center ridge of the Southwest Face on scree slopes and then talus until reaching camp two at 5,100 meters. Camp two is located just below the snow line and the climb from camp one to camp two takes between 1.5 and 3 hours.

Immediately out of camp two we have to navigate a technical rock section which involves a steep gully and an exposed traverse. This section will have around 300 meters of fixed rope in place for safety. Above this section we start to ascend snow and ice slopes up to 50 degrees in angle before making a traverse to a semi flat plateau where we can rest and take refreshment in a safe location. The direction of the route we navigate on the plateau depends on the snow conditions. We then approach a snow and ice couloir with a steepness of up to 70 degrees which we climb with the assistance of fixed rope. This couloir eventually bring us to the site of camp three which is located on mixed snow and rock terrain. The climb from camp two to camp three takes 3 to 6 hours.

Summit day is a long one as we have 1,000-1,200 meters of elevation gain to reach the summit. Depending on the conditions of the seracs that are located on the upper sections of the Southwest Face depends on where we place our high camp. We may have to establish the camp a couple of hundred meters lower than anticipated for safety depending on the snow conditions in the present season. The climb from high camp starts around midnight on snow and ice then there is another technical rock section to navigate in the dark. After passing the last rock section we traverse the Southwest Face in a safe area away from the seracs and then climb the left hand side on a somewhat steep ridge up to 70 degrees to attain the West Ridge. From the foot of the final section of the Southwest Face to the summit we will fix rope where necessary. The final summit ridge is long and exposed and we pass the first and second summits before reaching our goal, the third and final summit. The climb from high camp to the summit takes 10-14 hours.

We are climbing a 7000-meter mountain later than normal and it will be cold, but hopefully gloriously fine. Trekking and at base camp, and even lower on the mountain should be pleasant enough but the high camps and summit will be savagely cold, perhaps like a reasonable summit day on Cho Oyu. So these are good conditions to use your 8000-meter gear.

During this expedition the team will be supported by a 1:3 Sherpa to climber ratio. Team members travel in pairs or groups and will have Sherpas to accompany them at all times. All of our Sherpas are 8,000-meter experienced.

Phil Crampton and Jamie McGuinness who have led and guided on a combined thirty-six 8,000-meter expeditions will be the expedition leaders.

8,000-Meter Preparation Expedition Gear List     Kang Guru Expedition Dispatches     Kang Guru Expedition Leader

The expedition cost includes:
· Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
· All transportation and meals in Nepal as itinerary
· Porters for personal gear to base camp and return
· All meals at base camp
· Group Nepal climbing Sherpas
· Group Nepal cooks at base camp
· Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
· Liaison Officer expenses
· Garbage Deposit
· Base, advanced base and high camp tents
· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
· Two-way radios
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· High altitude freeze-dried meals
· Climbing Sherpa summit bonus and carry bonus
The expedition cost does not include:
· Airfare to and from Nepal
· Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
· Alcoholic beverages
· Nepal visa costs
· Kathmandu airport departure tax
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Staff gratuities
· Puja contribution

Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com