Aconcagua - 6,962m

Aconcagua is the highest point in the Western and Southern hemisphere and stands on the border with Chile, 30km from the Puente del Inca settlement.

The normal Horcones route on Aconcagua is a non-technical climb whose major challenge is the altitude, that's why our itinerary emphasizes on gradual acclimatization by doing progressively higher carries while staying for 5 nights at Plaza de Mulas base camp.

Being in good physical condition is the most important requisite for this climb. Previous experience at altitude of 4,270 meters (14,000ft) or higher is very helpful. Usually, the normal route can be climbed all the way to the top without stepping on snow, although some years there can be some in the traverse that leads to the canaleta, and in the canaleta itself. This means, ice axe and crampons are required as well as some familiarity with their use.

The weather on Aconcagua is an important consideration. It can change quickly and unexpectedly. Good clothing and experience with stormy or harsh weather conditions are strongly recommended.

Matthias Zurbriggen made the first ascent of Aconcagua in 1897 as a guide for the Fitzgerald expedition who were the first group to use the Horcones Valley approach.

Travel Day: Your international flight will arrive in either Santiago, Chile or Buenos Aries, Argentina. Most climbers spend the night in these respective cities before continuing their journey the following day.

Day 1: Our expedition will meet in the city of Mendoza, Argentina. The city is famous for its sidewalk cafes, Argentinian beef and Malbec wine. We will meet you at the airport and transfer you to our hotel.

Day 2: From Mendoza we make the four hour drive to the settlement of Puenta de Incas at 2,438 meters (8,000ft) and we spend the evening at the hostel Los Penitentes. Once we arrive we sort out our bags for the mules for the following days journey to Confluencia.

Day 3: The trek to Confluencia at 3,353 meters (11,000ft) takes about 4 hours. The trail follows a valley flanked by scree slopes and folded strata. Shortly after starting our trek we will get our first views of Aconcagua. From now on we will be sleeping in tents.

Day 4: Acclimatization trek to Plaza Francia at 4,115 meters (13,500ft) we trek close to the foot of the South Face of Aconcagua. This impressive face rises in a sheer 3,000m (10,000ft) from the head of the valley. The trek we see us reach over 4,000m (13,200ft) which will assist our acclimatisation. We return to Confluencia for the night and the acclimatization trek takes around 6-7 hours total.

Day 5: The trek to base camp, Plaza de Mulas at 4,359 meters (14,300ft) takes around 8 hours. After 3-4 hours of trekking the valley splits, and the route swings to the right (north). We continue the trek and arrive at base camp 4-5 hours later. We make our base camp tents homely and meet our local support staff.

Day 6: Acclimatization/Rest day in base camp. This day allows all the members to adjust to the higher elevation and rest from the previous days strenuous trekking. We provide breakfast, lunch and dinner in base camp as well as hot drinks and drinking water being provided regularly.

Day 7: Acclimatization climb to Camp 1, Canada Place at 4,877 meters (16,000ft). The route follows a well-worn trail zigzagging up scree to the campsite on a spur. The climb to Camp 1 takes around 3 hours and the decent back to base camp another 1-2 hours.

Day 8: Carry to Camp 2, Nido de Condores at 5,334 meters (17,500ft). The route above Camp 1 continues up scree slopes, easing in the angle, to a basin on the north-east ridge. This is the site of Nido de Condores. The climb to Camp 2 will take about 5 hours from Base Camp with 2 hours for the descent to base camp.

Day 9: Rest day in base camp after the long climb to Camp 2 and back to Base Camp .

Day 10: Move to Camp 2, Nido de Condores where we spend the night. This will be our first night sleeping above Base Camp. The guides do all of the cooking on the mountain and they will provide a ready supply of hot drinks to ensure everyone remains well hydrated.

Day 11: Carry to Berlin Huts at 5,950 meters (19,520ft). The route continues up the zig-zag path to Berlin Huts. The huts themselves are derelict and we camp nearby. The climb to Camp 3 takes around 3 hours and then we descend to Camp 2, Nido de Condores, which takes 1-2 hours more..

Day 12: Move to Camp 2, Berlin Huts in anticipation of the upcoming summit day.

Day 13-17: Summit day. We have four days in which to reach the summit. We hopefully can summit on day one but if we encounter bad weather we have extra days to compensate this. The route continues on the path above the Berlin Huts and zigzag's up scree and the occasional snow patches to another hut, Independencia at 6,377m (20,920ft). The route continues to the traverse that leads to the foot of a large gully leading down from the Summit Ridge. This is the Canaleta which leads to the Summit Ridge. A half hour traverse across rocky ground on a well-defined path, to a short scramble immediately below the top, leads to the small summit plateau. There is a cross that marks the summit. We will descend to the Berlin Huts. The climb from high camp to the summit takes around 6-10 hours with another 2-4 hours for the descent to high camp.

Day 18: Descend to base camp and prepare our luggage for the following days trek to Puenta del Inca.

Day 19: Trek out to Puente del Inca and drive back to Mendoza. The 7 hour trek down the Horcones Valley to Puente del Inca makes for a long day. The drive to Mendoza takes another 3 hours so we will arrive at our hotel late in the evening. The restaurants in Mendoza are plentiful in wine and steaks and stay open late. Our hotel has soft beds and hot showers.

Day 20: Depart Mendoza for Santiago or Buenos Aries.

Hector Ponce de Leon, who has reached the summit of Aconcagua multiple times will be the expedition leader and this will be his nineteenth Aconcagua expedition.

Aconcagua Gear List     Aconcagua Expedition Dispatches     Aconcagua Expedition Leader

The expedition cost includes:
· Shared accommodation in Mendoza as itinerary
· All transportation and meals in Argentina as itinerary
· Mules for personal gear to base camp and return
· All meals at base camp
· Group cooks at base camp
· Expedition permit, peak fee, highway and conservation fees
· Base base camp and high camp tents
· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
· Two-way radios
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· High altitude freeze-dried meals
· 1:4 guide to climber ratio

The expedition cost does not include:
· Airfare to and from Chile or Argentina
· Meals and drinks in Mendoza
· Alcoholic beverages
· Chile or Argentina visa costs
· Mendoza airport departure tax
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Porters
· Staff gratuities


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