Alpamayo, Peru

Altitude Junkies offer one of the most cost-effective full-service expeditions on Alpamayo with a second summit of Quitaraju available if time and conditions allow. Our expedition is limited to six climbers and one expedition leader with a 1:2 guide to climber ratio.

Leadership
Veteran Himalayan guide Phil Crampton will lead the 2012 Alpamayo & Quitaraju expedition and he will be assisted by some local Peruvian guides.

The Trek
Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Lima, Peru. From Lima we drive to Huaraz where we will stay in a small local hotel for two nights before making the three hour drive the following day to the trail head in the village of Cashapampa. Once we have organized our pack animal loads we will trek to Llama Corral where we camp for the evening. The following day we continue the trek passing the Santa Cruz lakes and we will place our base camp at treeline at around 13,500 feet.

Climb Strategy
We start the climb by making a load carry to the moraine camp at 16,000ft which is located at the edge of the glacier. We then take a rest day at base camp to review any skills needed and to get ready for the summit push. The following day we move up to the Moraine Camp. Our first foray onto the glacier sees us move up to the Col Camp located at an elevation of 18,000ft. All going to plan we attempt the summit of Alpamayo the following day and then descend to the col Camp. We spend a rest day at the Col Camp and if we are feeling like it we will make an attempt on Quitaraju again descending to the Col Camp. The following day we will descend to base camp and the following day we will be back in Huaraz by the evening.

The Route
The route has a short approach across a steep glacier crossing the bergshrund bringing us onto the south West Face. The length of the climb depends on which route we do, either the Ferrari or the French Direct route, and consists of 6-pitches of technical tool climbing on ice and neve from 50-70 degrees in angle to just below the summit ridge. Usually a steep final pitch sees us top out on the narrow ridge where we can make our way to the summit.

Health
We provide medial oxygen, a portable altitude chamber and comprehensive medical chests at base camp. The higher camps also have medical kits and we also ask that all climbers carry individual micro high altitude medical kits at all times above base camp as the local guides and leader does.

Communications
Our satellite phones and satellite internet modems are available for our team members to use at base camp and on the trek at actual cost price as we feel charging an outrageous amount to phone or email family is unfair during an expedition.

Weather Forecasts
To ensure the safety of all our climbers we subscribe to a professional weather forecast service for the duration of the season and have access to this information at the respective base and high camps and receive constant updates during our summit push.

Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.

Photo credits: Alpamayo's South West Face

The expedition cost includes:
· Shared accommodation in Lima and Huaraz as itinerary
· All transportation and meals in Peru as itinerary
· Mules for personal gear to base camp and return
· All meals at base camp
· Group local guides
· Expedition permit, peak fee, highway and conservation fees
· Base camp and high camp tents
· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
· Two-way radios
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· High altitude freeze-dried meals
· Local guide summit and performance bonus
· Satellite phone and satellite internet use at cost price
The expedition cost does not include:
· Airfare to and from Peru
· Meals and drinks in Lima & Huaraz
· Alcoholic beverages
· Peru visa cost
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Staff gratuities

Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com