Altitude Junkies

Everest - 8,850m

The Tibetan name for the mountain is Chomolungma, which means ‘Mother Goddess of the Earth’. The North Col-Northeast Ridge route is somewhat more technical than the Nepal South Col-Southeast Ridge route but more economical for budget conscious climbers.

The first ascent on the Tibet side of the mountain was made via the North Col-Northeast Ridge by a Chinese expedition in 1960.

Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu. From Kathmandu we fly to the capital of Tibet, Lhasa. After sightseeing in Lhasa we drive to the Tibetan town of Shigatse and the following day continue our journey and spend a night at Shegar before arriving at old Chinese base camp.

We follow a cautious acclimatization schedule at base camp spending five nights there before walking the 4-8 hours to intermediate base camp. The trail enters the East Rongbuk Valley and follows the East Rongbuk Glacier. We spend two nights at this campsite for acclimatization.

Advanced base camp is reached within 4-8 hours from intermediate base camp. The route continues to follow the East Rongbuk Glacier until arriving at the camp that sits at the foot of the North Col.

The climbing begins by following the trail out of advanced base camp leading to the gear depot. Some teams leave their heavy mountaineering boots; crampons and axes at this area. We then walk over the flat section of the glacier to approach the foot of the north col. Fixed ropes will be in place and we climb slopes up to 45-degrees before reaching the halfway point up the col. The first aluminum ladder crossing a crevasse is short and the route continues culminating with a short steep slope just before the second longer ladder crossing a deep crevasse before arriving in camp. The climb from advanced base camp to camp one takes between 4-8 hours.

Camp one sits on the North Col between the Everest North Ridge and Changtse. The route continues along the North Ridge using the fixed rope and the terrain switches from the snow ridge to easy mixed terrain at 7,500m (24,600ft) where we continue to our camp two. This is one of the longest days on the mountain and takes between 5-10 hours.

Camp two is located on the North Ridge and the tents are erected on platforms constructed from loose rocks. This campsite is very exposed and receives strong winds. Most climbers, if not already, decide to use their supplementary oxygen from here onwards. The route continues up the ridge before traversing diagonally right across the North Face and then takes a more direct route into camp three. The climb from camp two to camp three takes between 3-6 hours.

Summit day will start early and the route heads on moderate terrain with one technical rock section to pass before arriving on the Northwest Ridge. The ridge is narrow and is followed passing the first step, the crux of the climb, the second step with its two ladders in place and the third step before climbing the summit pyramid and then traversing a rocky section to the snow capped summit. The climb from camp three to the summit takes between 7-11 hours with 3-5 hours for the descent to camp three.

During this expedition the team will be supported by a 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio. Team members can travel independently in groups or pairs lower on the mountain and will have a Sherpa to accompany them at all times above camp two. All of our Sherpas, both Nepalese and Tibetan will have all reached the summit of Everest before and most have worked previously on an Altitude Junkies expedition.

Phil Crampton, who has reached the summit of Everest from both the Tibet and Nepal routes, will be the expedition leader and this will be his sixth Everest expedition. He specializes in the Tibet side of the mountain and many of the Tibetan Sherpas we use on our expeditions have been taught mountaineering skills personally from him at the Tibet Mountaineering Guide School in Lhasa.

Everest Gear List     Everest Expedition Dispatches

Everest Expedition Leader

The expedition cost includes:

· Shared accommodation in Kathmandu and Tibet as itinerary

· All transportation and meals in Nepal and Tibet as itinerary

· Yaks for personal gear from base-advanced base camp and return

· All meals at base, intermediate and advanced base camp

· Group Nepal and Tibetan climbing Sherpas

· Group Nepal and Tibetan cooks at base and advanced base camp

· Expedition permit, peak fee, highway and conservation fees

· Base, intermediate, advanced base and high camp tents

· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel

· Supplementary climbing oxygen (6 bottles), mask and regulator

· Two-way radios

· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen

· High altitude freeze-dried meals

· Climbing Sherpa summit bonus and carry bonus

The expedition cost does not include:

· Airfare to and from Nepal

· Meals and drinks in Kathmandu

· Alcoholic beverages

· Nepal visa and Tibet group visa costs

· Kathmandu airport departure tax

· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance

· Personal climbing clothing and equipment

· Staff gratuities

· Puja contribution

Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com