Altitude Junkies

Mustagh Ata - 7,546m

Mustagh Ata has one of the most straightforward routes on a 7,500m (24,600ft) mountain and is an exceptional training peak for those wishing to climb an 8000-meter mountain. The mountain is located in the Chinese Pamirs close to where the borders of China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan meet. This is an ideal mountain for those wishing to make a ski ascent and descent from the summit. The route we climb is different to the normal route and has a more challenging and isolated feel to it and we will most likely be the only team on the route.

A large Sino-Russian expedition placed 31 members on the summit in 1956 and the first ski ascent of Mustagh Ata was made in 1980 by an American expedition led by Ned Gillette and Galen Rowell.

Our expedition will meet in the fabled Chinese city of Kashgar at 1,400m (4,593ft), which lies in the Xinjiang autonomous region of western China. From Kashgar we drive to our Tashkurgan acclimatization camp at 3,700m (12,139ft). We follow a cautious acclimatization schedule at this camp before driving to the trailhead and walking between 3-5 hours to reach our base camp at 4,500m (14,763ft).

The climbing begins with the trail to camp one at 5,350m (17,716ft) over a scree slope, which lessens in steepness as we approach the camp. Those members, who plan to ski, can start to skin up the mountain at around 5,000m (16,400ft) at a put in point where the glacier fork nears the scree trail. The camp is located on level rock platforms next to the glacier. The trip from base camp to camp one should take between 4-5 hours and is often completed in hiking boots or approach shoes.

The rest of the route is now on snow. Immediately out of camp one we climb diagonally switching back through the crevassed section until reaching a small bowl, sometimes called the ‘half pipe’. From here we follow the right side of the bowl before climbing diagonally to the left and heading towards the ridge. We keep a safe distance from the corniced ridge taking us to a plateau and a larger bowl. We continue diagonally on steeper terrain until reaching camp two at 6,200m (20,341ft). The camp is in an area sheltered from the wind but this is the longest day of the expedition taking between 6-10 hours. The crevasse conditions of the route between camp one and two vary from season so we will climb this section roped up for safety.

From camp two we climb slightly less steep slopes, through a crevassed area, then a long approach to camp three at 6,800m (22,309ft), that lies somewhat exposed to the wind and cold temperatures.

Summit day starts when the sun hits the tents, as the route is straightforward and not too long. We navigate a small crevassed section 100-meters above camp three and then arrive on the summit plateau for the long approach to the summit. The false summit shows us itself on the right side and we may see climbers from the normal route heading to that summit. To reach the true summit we need to continue over the nearly flat plateau for another 1-2 hours before reaching the true summit, which is adorned with Buddhist prayer flags. The journey from camp three to the summit at 7,546m (24,757ft) takes between 4-8 hours.

Mustagh Ata Gear List     Mustagh Ata Expedition Dispatches

The expedition cost includes:

· Shared accommodation in Kashgar as itinerary

· All transportation and meals in Xinjiang as itinerary

· Camel from personal gear from trailhead-base camp and return

· All meals at acclimatization and base camp

· Group Tibetan climbing Sherpas

· Group cooks and kitchen assistants at acclimatization/base camp

· Expedition permit, peak fee, highway and conservation fees

· Acclimatization, base and high camp tents

· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel

· Two-way radios

· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen

· High altitude freeze-dried meals

· Climbing Sherpa summit bonus and carry bonus

The expedition cost does not include:

· Airfare to and from Kashgar

· Meals and drinks in Kashgar

· Alcoholic beverages in transit

· China visa and visa extension

· Kashgar excess baggage weight charges

· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance

· Personal climbing clothing and equipment

· Staff gratuities

· Puja contribution

Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com