Manaslu Route

Disclaimer: The above displayed route leading to camp two can deviate depending on the different conditions each season.

The climbing begins immediately out of base camp as we step onto the Manaslu Glacier. The route will be heavily crevassed and we will place bamboo marker wands and fix rope over the more dangerous sections. The climb from base camp to camp one takes between 2-4 hours.

Camp one sits on a protected shoulder at the head of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a separate satellite mountain of Manaslu. The route continues up steep slopes, which lessen as the route progresses, weaving between seracs. There will be fixed ropes in place on most of the route from camp one to camp two. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes between 3-6 hours. Some strong climbers skip the night at camp one on their second trip up the glacier and climb directly from base camp to camp two.

Camp two is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation. The route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three. This camp is notorious for experiencing strong winds and we need to make sure our tents have bombproof anchors. The climb from camp two to camp three is one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.

Camp three is placed on a flat saddle that sits just below the col, hence the reason this campsite receives strong winds frequently. The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow which will have fixed rope in place for safety. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which takes us to high camp, camp four. The climb from camp three to camp four takes between 4-8 hours.

Summit day will start late evening or early morning depending on the conditions and the route heads up a moderate slope immediately out of high camp before arriving at the first of the summit plateau's. The route climbs three separate tiered plateaus before arriving at the final pyramid slope. From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until reaching the fore summit. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance and this section will have fixed rope in place. The climb from camp four to the summit takes between 4-8 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.

Photo credit: Samuli Mansikka - Manaslu from camp one.

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