Manaslu - 8163m

Altitude Junkies will be returning to Manaslu in the autumn of 2010 offering what is considered, one of the most cost-effective full-service expeditions on the mountain.

Our Manaslu expedition is limited to seven climbers and one expedition leader with a 1:2 Sherpa to climber ratio. Some of the other operators have as many as fifteen climbers on one expedition and we feel a smaller team makes for a more intimate and satisfying experience for a climber on Manaslu. The single leader and guide offers the same expertise as a fully guided climb with a 4:1 climber to guide ratio but allows climbers more flexibility traveling in smaller groups lower on the mountain.

Leadership
Manaslu veteran guide Phil Crampton who has previously summitted Manaslu will once again lead the 2010 expedition and this will be his third Manaslu expedition.

In addition to an experienced leader the team’s head climbing Sherpa Sirdar will be Dorje Sherpa who was the Sherpa responsible for carrying the IMAX camera from the South Col to the Summit for the hugely successful IMAX Everest film from the 1996 spring season. Dorje has vast experience being a Sirdar on Manaslu and will be directing our climbing Sherpas who have all summitted Manaslu before, some multiple times and their knowledge of the mountain is unrivaled.

The Trek
Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu where we will stay in the beautiful boutique Courtyard Hotel located in a quiet area of the tourist district of Thamel. After a few days in Kathmandu we drive to the gateway of the Manaslu trekking circuit, Arughat, to start our nine-day trek to Manaslu Base Camp.

After arriving in Arughat with our porters that we have brought from Kathmandu with us, we organize the loads for the following days trek to Soti Khola. Our trek will continue each day as we do not need to stop extra nights for acclimatization until later on during the trek as the elevation gain is immediately very low. We spend nights in the villages of Machha Khola, Jagat, Deng and Namrung respectively before arriving at Sama Goan where we spend three nights for cautious acclimatization before finally arriving at Manaslu Base Camp.

During the trek our kitchen staff will prepare of all our meals as we camp or stay in any new teahouses available.

Base Camp
Our base camp is as luxurious, if not more so than some of the other more expensive operators and the food prepared by our highly experienced cooks is considered some of the best available in the Himalayas.

Each climber is provided with a personal Mountain Hardwear 3-person tent at base camp, which is insulated with a foam floor covering and complimented with an extra thick foam mattress.

For group occasions we provide a Mountain Hardwear dome both for dining and another as our recreation dome. The dining dome has large padded chairs and is spacious, carpeted, heated and lit by solar electricity. Our recreation dome has the same facilities as our dining dome but with the addition of computers and satellite internet modems, satellite phones, a wet bar and library with comfortable seating.

We provide a carpeted, heated and solar-lit toilet and shower tent with flushable toilets, stainless steel wash sinks and hot water on demand propane heated showers. We make it a policy at Altitude Junkies to remove all human waste from base camp and have porters carry our toilet drums to a lower village where it can be disposed of properly.

The Kitchen
The head and assistant cooks have all been trained by western chefs in food preparation and strict hygiene standards and produce a varied and nutritious western menu throughout the expedition. They prepare three delicious hot meals a day as well as preparing an amazing array of appetizers for our customary early evening cocktail hour during rest days at base camp. We use local fresh produce and meats and these are complimented by a huge selection of imported foods and snacks.

Climb Strategy
We follow a cautious acclimatization schedule at base camp spending two to four nights there before taking our first trip onto the Manaslu glacier. We plan only to climb on the glacier a maximum of three or four times and this includes the summit push. Our schedule usually sees us make our first climb from base camp to camp one to drop off loads and then returning to base camp the same day.

After more acclimatization and the progress of the fixed ropes being placed up to camp two, we climb to camp one, spending the evening and then explore the route to camp two, spending the evening if possible before returning to base camp the following day. We continue our acclimatization schedule with another night at camp one and camp two before tagging camp three or sleeping there if conditions allow, then descending to base camp.

The summit push will see us make our final climb on the glacier and climb to camp one, two, three and four respectively before leaving for the summit from the high camp in early hours of the morning.

The Route
The climbing begins immediately out of base camp as we step onto the Manaslu Glacier. The route will be heavily crevassed and we will place bamboo marker wands and fix rope over the more dangerous sections. The climb from base camp to camp one takes between 2-4 hours.

Camp one sits on a protected shoulder at the head of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a separate satellite mountain of Manaslu. The route continues up steep slopes, which lessen as the route progresses, weaving between seracs. There will be fixed ropes in place on most of the route from camp one to camp two. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes between 3-6 hours. Some strong climbers skip the night at camp one on their second trip up the glacier and climb directly from base camp to camp two.

Camp two is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation. The route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three. This camp is notorious for experiencing strong winds and we need to make sure our tents have bombproof anchors. The climb from camp two to camp three is one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.

Camp three is placed on a flat saddle that sits just below the col, hence the reason this campsite receives strong winds frequently. The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow which will have fixed rope in place for safety. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which takes us to high camp, camp four. The climb from camp three to camp four takes between 4-8 hours.

Summit day will start late evening or early morning depending on the conditions and the route heads up a moderate slope immediately out of high camp before arriving at the first of the summit plateau's. The route climbs three separate tiered plateaus before arriving at the final pyramid slope. From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until reaching the fore summit. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance and this section will have fixed rope in place. The climb from camp four to the summit takes between 4-8 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.

High Altitude Camps
Mountain Hardwear 3-person tents will be used at high camps and these will be occupied by two persons up to the highest camp where we usually place three persons per tent for warmth. All high altitude food, stoves and cooking gas will be in place and members are only required to carry their own personal gear during the expedition.

Health
We provide medial oxygen, portable altitude chambers and comprehensive medical chests at base camp. The higher camps also have medical kits and we also ask that all climbers carry individual micro high altitude medical kits at all times above base camp as the Sherpas and leader does.

Communications
For constant communication we have all climbing members, climbing Sherpas and guides have their own personal two-way radio at all times on the mountain. We also have base station radios at base camp and have these active at all times when members and Sherpas are on the mountain.

Our satellite phones and satellite internet modems are available for our team members to use at base camp at actual cost price as we feel charging an outrageous amount to phone or email family is unfair during such a long expedition.

Weather Forecasts
To ensure the safety of all our climbers we subscribe to a professional weather forecast service for the duration of the season and have access to this information at all the respective base and high camps and receive constant updates during our summit push.

Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.

Photo credit: Phil Crampton - Manaslu from base camp.

The expedition cost includes:
· Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
· All transportation and meals in Nepal as itinerary
· Porters for personal gear to base camp and return
· All meals at base camp
· Group Nepal climbing Sherpas
· Group Nepal cooks at base camp
· Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
· Liaison Officer expenses
· Garbage Deposit
· Base camp and high camp tents
· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
· Two-way radios
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· High altitude freeze-dried meals
· Climbing Sherpa summit bonus and carry bonus
· Satellite phone and satellite internet use at cost price
The expedition cost does not include:
· Airfare to and from Nepal
· Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
· Alcoholic beverages
· Nepal visa costs
· Kathmandu airport departure tax
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Supplementary climbing oxygen, mask and regulator
· Staff gratuities
· Personal Puja contribution

Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com