Manaslu - 8,163m

The objective is to reach the summit of Manaslu via a route similar to the line pioneered by the Japanese on May 9, 1956. Japanese climber Toshio Imanishi and Indian Gyalzen Norbu reached the summit plateau via an east facing icefall, whereas our expedition plans to ascend the longer yet safer Northeast Ridge.

Manaslu has not previously extensively been offered as a commercial peak, however for future autumn climbing seasons we will once again be offering this peak if the criteria of the restrictions to climb in Tibet on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma remain too stringent. We successfully put expedition team members and Sherpas on the summit on our 2008 expedition and we think it is the best immediate alternative to our scheduled Tibet Cho Oyu and Shishapangma expeditions. Several other major guiding companies will most likely be there and we will work together to assist with the rope fixing.

If snow conditions are good then the technical climbing difficulties are only a notch above Cho Oyu or Shishapangma. There is slightly more climbing around seracs, so perhaps a little ice climbing on fixed ropes. Similar to Shishapangma, there are some wide-open gentle slopes but it tends to be cloudier there and so we need to wand them carefully and put ropes over the crevasses.

If there is heavy snow, and the risk is higher being on the wetter side of the Himalaya, the trail breaking could be arduous. In reasonable conditions Manaslu is a mountain suitable for commercial teams, but the there is a greater risk of less than good conditions compared to Cho Oyu or Shishapangma. Manaslu is preferable to Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I or Broad Peak, all of which have extremely variable conditions, depending on the monsoon.

Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Nepal, Kathmandu. From Kathmandu we drive to the gateway of the Manaslu trekking circuit, Arughat, to start our nine-day trek to Manaslu Base Camp. After arriving in Arughat with our porters that we have brought from Kathmandu with us, we organize the loads for the following days trek to Soti Khola. Our trek will continue each day as we do not need to stop extra nights for acclimatization until later on during the trek as the elevation gain is immediately very low. We spend nights in the villages of Machha Khola, Jagat, Deng and Namrung respectively before arriving at Sama Goan where we spend three nights for cautious acclimatization before finally arriving at Manaslu Base Camp.

We follow a cautious acclimatization schedule at base camp before taking our first trip up the Manaslu glacier. The climbing begins immediately out of base camp as we step onto the Manaslu Glacier. The route will be heavily crevassed and we will place bamboo marker wands and fix rope over the more dangerous sections. The climb from base camp to camp one takes between 2-4 hours.

Camp one sits on a protected shoulder at the head of the Manaslu glacier at the foot of the North Peak, a separate satellite mountain of Manaslu. The route continues up steep slopes which lessen as the route progresses, weaving between seracs. There will be fixed ropes in place on most of the route from camp one to camp two. This is the most technical section of the climb and takes between 3-6 hours. Some strong climbers skip the night at camp one on their second trip up the glacier and climb directly from base camp to camp two.

Camp two is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, although this campsite can receive a lot of snow accumulation. The route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as we start to approach camp three. This camp is notorious for experiencing strong winds and we need to make sure our tents have bombproof anchors. The climb from camp two to camp three is one of the shortest on the mountain and takes between 1.5-3 hours.

Camp three is placed on a flat saddle that sits just below the col, hence the reason this campsite receives strong winds frequently. The route continues up the remaining glacier weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow which will have fixed rope in place for safety. There is an exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents which takes us to high camp, camp four. The climb from camp three to camp four takes between 4-8 hours.

Summit day will start late evening or early morning depending on the conditions and the route heads up a moderate slope immediately out of high camp before arriving at the first of the summit plateau's. The route climbs three separate tiered plateaus before arriving at the final pyramid slope. From here another short steep slope below the immediate summit is climbed until reaching the fore summit. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters in linear distance and this section will have fixed rope in place. The climb from camp four to the summit takes between 4-8 hours with 2-4 hours for the descent to camp four.

During this expedition the team will be supported by a 1:2 Sherpa to climber ratio. Team members can travel independently in groups or pairs lower on the mountain and will have Sherpas to accompany them at all times above camp three. All of our Sherpas are 8,000-meter experienced and some have reached the summit of Manaslu.

Phil Crampton who has reached the true summit of Manaslu will be the expedition leader and this will be his second Manaslu expedition.

Manaslu Gear List     Manaslu Expedition Dispatches     Manaslu Expedition Leader

The expedition cost includes:
· Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
· All transportation and meals in Nepal as itinerary
· Porters for personal gear to base camp and return
· All meals at base camp
· Group Nepal climbing Sherpas
· Group Nepal cooks at base camp
· Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
· Liaison Officer expenses
· Garbage Deposit
· Base camp and high camp tents
· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
· Two-way radios
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· High altitude freeze-dried meals
The expedition cost does not include:
· Airfare to and from Nepal
· Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
· Alcoholic beverages
· Nepal visa costs
· Kathmandu airport departure tax
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Supplementary climbing oxygen, mask and regulator
· Staff gratuities ($200)
· Climbing Sherpa summit bonus and carry bonus ($500)
· Puja contribution

Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com