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Altitude Junkies Inc. offer a cost effective alpine climb of one of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru most iconic peaks, Alpamayo. Our expedition is limited to four climbers and two guides for a 1:2 guide to climber ratio.
The Cordillera Blanca is ideal for those climbers looking to further their alpine climbing resume, climbers with short schedules or those who lack climbing partners for climbs. We will review all the techniques and skills needed to make a safe and successful fast and lightweight alpine climb of a 5,000-meter peak for acclimatization and then the prestigious Alpamayo.
Veteran Peruvian guide Percy Dextre will lead the Alpamayo climbs along with Phil Crampton. Phil is our Himalayan expedition leader with over one-hundred Himalayan expeditions and they have both climbed alpine routes extensively in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Percy Dextre has over 25 years experience of the Cordillera Blanca range and is a UIAGM certified guide.
Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Lima, Peru. From Lima we drive by luxury bus for roughly eight hours to Huaraz where we will stay in our favorite funky hotel for three nights. After our cautious acclimatization schedule in Huaraz which includes visiting the fine local restaurants we make the drive to the trail head of Yannapacha for the short one hour walk with our cook and pack animals to Moraine Camp at 4,800 meters. We will spend the second day at Yannapacha training the skills needed to climb Alpamayo safely as well as aiding our acclimatization. The following day we climb Yannapacha and return to Huaraz for the evening. We will spend a full rest day in Huaraz before leaving town for Alpamayo.
After our Huaraz rest day we make the drive to the village of Cashampa. Once we have organized our pack animal loads we will trek for three hours to the Llama Coral Camp that is located at an elevation of 3,800 meters. The second day of trekking will see us take the same time walking to reach base camp at an elevation at 4,115 meters.
We establish our base camp and then make plans for our summit attempt. We start the climb by making the ascent to the Moraine Camp at 4,875 meters, which is located at the edge of the glacier. Our first foray onto the glacier sees us move up to the Col Camp located at an elevation of 5,485 meters. All going to plan we attempt the summit of Alpamayo the following day and then descend to Base Camp. The following day we will be back in Huaraz by the evening.
The route has a short approach across a steep glacier crossing the bergshrund bringing us onto the South West Face. The length of the climb depends on which route we do, either the Ferrari or the French Direct route, and consists of 6-pitches of technical tool climbing on ice and neve from 50-70 degrees in angle to just below the summit ridge. Usually a steep final pitch sees us top out on the narrow ridge where we can make our way to the summit.
We provide medical oxygen, a portable altitude chamber and comprehensive medical chests at base camp. The higher camps also have medical kits and we also ask that all climbers carry individual micro high altitude medical kits at all times above base camp as the local guides and leader does.
Day 1. Arrive Lima (Hotel)
Day 2. Drive to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 3. Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 4. Day trek to Churup Lake back to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 5. Drive to Yannapacha and trek to Moraine Camp
Day 6. Yannapacha training day
Day 7. Climb Yannapacha, descend to Base Camp, return to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 8. Huaraz rest day (Hotel)
Day 9. Drive to Cashampa, trek to Llama Coral Camp
Day 10. Trek to Base Camp
Day 11. Climb to Moraine Camp
Day 12. Climb to Glacier Camp
Day 13. Summit to Base Camp
Day 14. Contingency Day
Day 15. Trek to Cashamapa, drive to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 16. Drive to Lima (Hotel)
Day 17. Depart Lima
Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue
· Single hotel accommodation in Lima and shared in Huaraz as itinerary
· All transportation in Peru as itinerary
· Mules for personal gear to base camp and return
· Private tent accommodation at Yannapacha and Alpamayo base camp
· Breakfast, lunch and dinner at base camp
· High altitude tents, stoves, fuel and food at Alpamayo high camps
· Park fees, highway and conservation fees
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· Airfare to and from Peru
· Meals and drinks in Lima and Huaraz
· Alcoholic beverages
· Peru visa cost if applicable
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Staff gratuities
Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.
Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com