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Altitude Junkies Inc. offer a cost effective alpine climb of two of Peru's most suitable Cordillera Blanca introductory peaks in the amazing Llanganuco Valley. Our expedition is limited to six climbers total including leaders with a 1:2 guide to climber ratio.
The Cordillera Blanca is ideal for those climbers looking to further their alpine climbing resume, climbers with short schedules or those who lack climbing partners for climbs. We will review all the techniques and skills needed to make a safe and successful fast and lightweight alpine climbs of two 5,000-meter peaks.
Veteran Peruvian guide Percy Dextre will lead the Cordillera Blanca climbs along with Phil Crampton. Phil is our Himalayan expedition leader with over one-hundred Himalayan expeditions and they have both climbed alpine routes extensively in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Percy Dextre has over 25 years experience of the Cordillera Blanca range and is a UIAGM certified guide.
Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Lima, Peru. From Lima we drive by luxury bus for roughly eight hours to Huaraz where we will stay in our favorite funky hotel for three nights. After our cautious acclimatization schedule in Huaraz which includes visiting the fine local restaurants we make the three hour drive to the trail head. Once we have organized our pack animal loads we will trek for two to three hours to the Pisco Base Camp that is located at an elevation of 4,670 meters.
We establish our base camp in the Llanganuco Valley and this will be our base for the next several days. After taking a rest day at base camp for acclimatization reasons and to review any alpine climbing techniques that may need refreshing, we then climb Pisco peak the following day. We make an early morning start and then climb the 5,752-meter Pisco and then return to base camp. This climb will aid our acclimatization for the following days ahead.
The emphasis of this expedition is to review and implement a fast and light approach to alpine climbing. We review all the newest gear available to enable us to climb faster and lighter and avoid using high camps as traditionally has been done on some of these peaks.
Hopefully after two successful summits we head back to Huaraz and once again enjoy the local restaurants for one last evening before our team members depart for Lima and then home. Those climbers with late flights can make the expedition duration one day less and go straight to the airport from Huaraz.
We have elected to climb Pisco first as an acclimatization peak. The South-West ridge offers no real technical challenges with a 30-45 degree route but will help work out any problems with any new gear and stretch the legs after several days of travel and compulsory rest days.
Yannapacha will be climbed via the West Face and the route consists of snow slopes of up to 60 degrees with two ice tools being required.
We provide medical oxygen, a portable altitude chamber and comprehensive medical chests at base camp.
Day 1. Arrive Lima (Hotel)
Day 2. Drive to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 3. Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 4. Huaraz trek to Churup Lake, back to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 5. Drive to Llanganuco Valley and trek to Pisco Base Camp
Day 6. Base Camp training
Day 7. Climb Pisco return to Base Camp
Day 8. Trek out, drive to Yannapacha Moraine Camp
Day 9. Yannapacha training day
Day 10. Climb Yannapacha return to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 11. Drive to Lima (Hotel)
Day 12. Depart Lima
Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue
· Single hotel accommodation in Lima and shared in Huaraz as itinerary
· All transportation in Peru as itinerary
· Mules for personal gear to base camp and return
· Private tent accommodation at Pisco & Yannapacha base camp
· Breakfast, lunch and dinner at base camp
· Park fees, highway and conservation fees
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· Airfare to and from Peru
· Meals and drinks in Lima and Huaraz
· Alcoholic beverages
· Peru visa cost if applicable
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Staff gratuities
Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.
Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com