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Altitude Junkies Inc. offer a cost effective alpine climb of one of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru most iconic peaks, Alpamayo. This is a private guided alpine climb with a 1:1 or 1:2 guide to climber ratio.
The Cordillera Blanca is ideal for those climbers looking to further their alpine climbing resume, climbers with short schedules or those who lack climbing partners for climbs. We will review all the techniques and skills needed to make a safe and successful fast and lightweight alpine climb of the prestigious Alpamayo.
Veteran Peruvian guide Percy Dextre will guide the Alpamayo climbs and has over 25 years experience of the Cordillera Blanca range and is a UIAGM certified guide.
Our climbers will meet in Huaraz before we make the drive to the village of Cashampa. Once we have organized our pack animal loads we will trek for three hours to the Llama Coral Camp that is located at an elevation of 3,800 meters. The second day of trekking will see us take the same time walking to reach base camp at an elevation at 4,115 meters.
We establish our base camp and then make plans for our summit attempt. We start the climb by making the ascent to the Moraine Camp at 4,875 meters, which is located at the edge of the glacier. Our first foray onto the glacier sees us move up to the Col Camp located at an elevation of 5,485 meters. All going to plan we attempt the summit of Alpamayo the following day and then descend to Base Camp. The following day we will be back in Huaraz by the evening.
The route has a short approach across a steep glacier crossing the bergshrund bringing us onto the South West Face. The length of the climb depends on which route we do, either the Ferrari or the French Direct route, and consists of 6-pitches of technical tool climbing on ice and neve from 50-70 degrees in angle to just below the summit ridge. Usually a steep final pitch sees us top out on the narrow ridge where we can make our way to the summit.
We provide medical oxygen, a portable altitude chamber and comprehensive medical chests at base camp. The higher camps also have medical kits and we also ask that all climbers carry individual micro high altitude medical kits at all times above base camp as the local guides and leader does.
Day 1. Drive to Cashampa, trek to Llama Coral Camp
Day 2. Trek to Base Camp
Day 3. Climb to Moraine Camp
Day 4. Climb to Glacier Camp
Day 5. Summit to Base Camp
Day 6. Contingency Day
Day 7. Trek to Cashamapa, drive to Huaraz
Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue
· All transportation in Peru as itinerary
· Mules for personal gear to base camp and return
· Private tent accommodation at Alpamayo base camp
· Breakfast, lunch and dinner at base camp and at high camps
· Park fees, highway and conservation fees
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· Airfare to and from Peru
· Meals and drinks in Lima and Huaraz
· Alcoholic beverages
· Peru visa cost if applicable
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Staff gratuities
Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.
Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com