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Altitude Junkies Inc. offer a cost effective alpine climb of two of Peru's most popular Cordillera Blanca peaks in the amazing Llanganuco Valley area. Our expedition is limited to six climbers total including leaders with a 1:2 guide to climber ratio.
The Cordillera Blanca is ideal for those climbers looking to further their alpine climbing resume, climbers with short schedules or those who lack climbing partners for climbs. We will review all the techniques and skills needed to make a safe and successful fast and lightweight alpine climbs of a 5,000 and 6,000-meter peaks.
Veteran Peruvian guide Percy Dextre will lead the Cordillera Blanca climbs along with Phil Crampton. Phil is our Himalayan expedition leader with over one-hundred Himalayan expeditions and they have both climbed alpine routes extensively in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Percy Dextre has over 25 years experience of the Cordillera Blanca range and is a UIAGM certified guide.
Our expedition will meet in the capital city of Lima, Peru. From Lima we drive by luxury bus for roughly eight hours to Huaraz where we will stay in our favorite funky hotel for three nights. After our cautious acclimatization schedule in Huaraz which includes visiting the fine local restaurants we make the three amnd half hour drive to the trail head. Once we have organized our pack animal loads we will trek for one hour to the Yannapacha Moraine Camp that is located at an elevation of 5,000 meters.
We establish our base camp at the Yannapacha moraine camp and this will be our base for the next several days. After taking a rest day at moraine camp for acclimatization reasons and to review any alpine climbing techniques that may need refreshing, we then climb Yannapacha peak the following day. We make an early morning start and then climb the 5,460-meter Yanapacha and then return to base camp. This climb will aid our acclimatization for the following days ahead.
The emphasis of this expedition is to review and implement a fast and light approach to alpine climbing. We review all the newest gear available to enable us to climb faster and lighter.
Hopefully after two successful summits we head back to Huaraz and once again enjoy the local restaurants for one last evening before our team members depart for Lima and then home. Those climbers with late flights can make the expedition duration one day less and go straight to the airport from Huaraz without spending another evening in Lima.
We have elected to climb Yannapacha first as an acclimatization peak. The West Face consists of snow slopes of up to 60 degrees with two ice tools being required, not super technical but will help work out any problems with any new gear and stretch the legs after several days of travel and compulsory rest days.
Chopicalqui will be climbed via the normal Southwest Ridge. We utilize two camps above base camp with a moraine camp (4,800m) and a high camp (5,600m). The route is a walk to moraine camp and then snow slopes up to 30 degress take us to the site of the high camp. Summit day sees snow slopes up to 50 degrees with a small slope of 70 degrees about 100 meters from the summit. The final crux of the climb is a 10-meter steep section up to 80 degrees just below the summit. Descent is by the same route with downclimbing and rappels.
We provide medical oxygen, a portable altitude chamber and comprehensive medical chests at base camp.
Day 1. Arrive Lima (Hotel)
Day 2. Drive to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 3. Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 4. Huaraz trek to Churup Lake, back to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 5. Drive just past Llanganuco Valley & trek to Yannapacha Moraine Camp
Day 6. Base Camp training
Day 7. Climb Yannapacha return to Base Camp, trek out, drive Chopicalqui Base Camp
Day 8. Climb to Moraine Camp
Day 9. Climb to High Camp
Day 10. Climb Chopicalqui return to Moraine Camp
Day 11. Contingency Day
Day 12. Descend to Base Camp, drive to Huaraz (Hotel)
Day 13. Drive to Lima (Hotel)
Day 14. Depart Lima
Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue
· Single hotel accommodation in Lima and shared in Huaraz as itinerary
· All transportation in Peru as itinerary
· Mules for personal gear to base camp and return
· Private tent accommodation at Yannapacha & Chopicalqui base camp
· Breakfast, lunch and dinner at base camp
· High altitude tents, stoves, fuel and food at Chopicalqui high camps
· Park fees, highway and conservation fees
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· Airfare to and from Peru
· Meals and drinks in Lima and Huaraz
· Alcoholic beverages
· Peru visa cost if applicable
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Staff gratuities
Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.
Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com