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Altitude Junkies Inc. offer a cost effective alpine climb of one of Peru's most popular Cordillera Blanca peaks in the amazing Llanganuco Valley area. This is a private guided alpine climb with a 1:1 or 1:2 guide to climber ratio.
The Cordillera Blanca is ideal for those climbers looking to further their alpine climbing resume, climbers with short schedules or those who lack climbing partners for climbs. We will review all the techniques and skills needed to make a safe and successful fast and lightweight alpine climb of a 6,000-meter peak.
Veteran Peruvian guide Percy Dextre will lead the Cordillera Blanca climbs and has over 25 years experience of the Cordillera Blanca range and is a UIAGM certified guide.
Our climbers will meet in Huaraz before we make the three and half hour drive to the trail head. We will trek for 20 minutes to reach base camp and then contiunue for another three to four hours to the moraine camp that is located at an elevation of 4,800 meters.
We walk and climb directly from our drop-off point to moraine camp. The following day we climb to the glacier high camp located at 5,400-5,600 meters. After reaching the summit we descend to moriane camp for the evening. The following day we descend to base camp, walk to the roadhead and drive to Huaraz.
Chopicalqui will be climbed via the normal Southwest Ridge. We utilize two camps above base camp with a moraine camp (4,800m) and a high camp (5,400-5,600m). The route is a walk to moraine camp and then snow slopes up to 30 degrees take us to the site of the high camp. Summit day sees snow slopes up to 50 degrees with a small slope of 70 degrees about 100 meters from the summit. The final crux of the climb is a 10-meter steep section up to 80 degrees just below the summit. Descent is by the same route with downclimbing and rappels.
We provide medical oxygen, a portable altitude chamber and comprehensive medical chests at base camp.
Day 1. Drive just past Llanganuco Valley & trek to Moraine Camp
Day 2. Climb to High Camp
Day 3. Climb Chopicalqui return to Moraine Camp
Day 4. Descend to Base Camp, drive to Huaraz
Climbers are required to have evacuation and medical insurance and we recommend using Global Rescue
· Mules for personal gear to base camp and return
· Shared tent accommodation at high camps
· Breakfast, lunch and dinner at high camps
· Park fees, highway and conservation fees
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· Airfare to and from Peru
· Meals and drinks in Lima and Huaraz
· Alcoholic beverages
· Peru visa cost if applicable
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Staff gratuities
Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.
Contact us: info@altitudejunkies.com